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Food Shark, Marfa Tx

Bon Appetit ranked The Food Shark of Marfa, Texas sixth in its Hot 10 US street food vendors.

But when I happened upon the Food Shark, after a few weeks of fast food and veggie-lacking desert meals of Arizona and western Texas, I ranked the Food Shark’s ambrosial hummus wrap ($6.99) number one.

Minimalist artist Donald Judd relocated from New York to Marfa in the 1970s, laying the foundation for this desert outpost to become an artistic Mecca by buying up abandoned buildings and offering artists space to work and exhibit. The New York Times cemented Marfa’s cultural role with its 2005 Art Land article, which touted the tourism that bypasses now-decrepit towns all over western Texas.

Abandoned Building Outside Marfa

Located on I-90, 75 miles south of Van Horn—a town that’s been reduced to an I-10 rest stop where 28 percent of the population lives below poverty—Marfa, with its beautifully restored Arts and Crafts buildings and deco details, is an oasis for billboard-weary travelers.

David and I had time for only a walk along Marfa’s main square, marveling at the brilliantly stocked bookstore—the perfect place to pick up a Cormac McCarthy novel before heading North to his Las Cruces base—and the local newspaper office before spotting Food Shark nestled beneath a corrugated metal structure in a square by the railway tracks.

The metal roof shades large, sculptural, communal tables—the Shark’s “dining room”—where a collection of locals, artsy hipsters and tourists mingle. We sat next to a chatty art historian who was in Marfa for the summer to archive Judd’s papers, tantalizing us with the thoughts of perusing this library ourselves.

As I had just cooked dumplings 30 miles before, we weren’t hungry. But seeing the inexpensive menu of Mediterranean-inspired local food, I ordered the hummus wrap, which was packed with crunchy greens, juicy garnet-colored tomatoes and thickly textured hummus. Accompanied by cold, unsweetened tea, our desert-driven thirst was finally quenched.

Food Shark's Hummus Wrap

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